I feel like it’s been forever since I designed a crochet sweater I wanted to design. No deadline, no goal, just something on the fly with no pressure. It took a bit of trial and error but I’m so pleased with the results of the Ash Pullover. Normally, my design process is very strict. I sketch, then grade everything out before even picking up my hook. This time I let my hook do the walking.
I loved how quick this pullover crocheted up. Since it’s a simple top down sweater once you get going its an easy project to finish. There’s no seaming or to much finishing touches that need to be done. I also really like how customizable it is. I made my sample with a simple striped yoke. I love how it looks on me but honestly, if you’re more on the busty side I’d recommend a solid color if you’re not wanting to accentuate that. You can also easily add length to the sleeves or body just by working more rounds.
I’ve included sizes XS to 5X to be size inclusive. I think it will look great on a variety of body types! I also have a bit of an obsession with the yarn I used. City Tweed by We Crochet is such a beautiful yarn. I love how it works up and the finished fabric looks so much more expensive than it actually is. I hope you love this crochet pullover as much as I do. You can view the pattern for free by scrolling down. If you’d like a pdf to print I you can purchase from my site, Ravelry or Etsy.
Use #Ashpullover and tag me @ktandthesquid when sharing on social media!
Ash Pullover Crochet Pattern ©2021 KT and the Squid. All rights reserved. You may not sell, trade, share or redistribute this pattern in any way. You may sell finished items made from this pattern.
XS (S, M, L, 1X) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)
Finished bust: 30 (34, 38, 42, 46) (50, 54, 57, 60)”
To fit a bust of: 28 (32, 36, 40, 44) (48, 52, 55, 58)”
This sweater was designed to be fitted. If you’d like a loose sweater size up. Sample is modeled in size S on a 32” bust. See the schematic on the last page for more sizing info.
We Crochet City Tweed Aran (55% Merino wool, 25% Superfine alpaca, 20% Donegal tweed; 164yds/100g; aran/heavy worsted)
Color A: 622 (705, 799, 885, 982) (1102, 1177, 1265, 1220, 1320) yards
Color B: 70 (80, 85, 118, 120) (154, 197, 206, 252) yards
692 (786, 883, 1004, 1102) (1255, 1373, 1471, 1572) total yards
H/5.0 mm hook (or hook to obtain gauge)
G+/4.5mm hook (or a hook .5mm smaller than gauge hook)
5 stitch markers (or scrap yarn)
Ch = chain
St(s) = stitch(es)
Sc = single crochet
BLO = back loop only
Herr dc = herringbone double crochet
Herr hdc = herringbone half double crochet
Herr dc2tog – herringbone double crochet 2 together
This pullover is worked seamlessly from the top down in continuous rounds.
You can add more length to the body by working more rounds if you’d like. Keep in mind this will require more yarn.
Gauge (save time and check your gauge!)
11 herr dc by 8 rows in the round = 4” (gauge is measured after blocking)
Gauge is worked in the round. I’ve made a little video HERE explaining how I like to do this.
Foundation Single Crochet (Fsc): Ch 2, insert hook into the 2nd ch from hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 1 loop on hook (this makes the ch), yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook (completes the sc).
Next Fsc: Insert hook under the 2 loops of the ch of the last st and pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops.
Herringbone Double Crochet (Herr dc): Yarn over, insert hook into st indicated, yarn over, pull through st AND 1st loop on hook, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over pull through last 2 loops.
Herringbone Half Double Crochet (Herr hdc): Yarn over, insert hook into st indicated, yarn over, pull through st AND 1st loop on hook, yarn over, pull through last 2 loops.
Herringbone Double Crochet 2 Together (Herr dc2tog): Yarn over insert hook into stitch indicated, yarn over, pull through st AND 1st loop on hook, yarn over pull through 1 loop, yarn over, insert hook into next st, yarn over pull through st AND 1st loop on hook, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, pull through 3 remaining loops.
Round 1 – Fsc 50(60, 64, 72, 74) (82, 92, 100, 108), being careful not to twist, join with a slip st to the first fsc.
Round 2 – Ch 1, Herr dc in the first 15(20, 22, 26, 27) (29, 32, 34, 36) for the back,
(Herr dc, ch 1, Herr dc) in the next,
Herr dc in the next 8(8, 8, 8, 8) (10, 12, 14, 16) for the first sleeve,
(Herr dc, ch 1, Herr dc) in the next,
Herr dc in the next 15(20, 22, 26, 27) (29, 32, 34, 36)for the front,
(Herr dc, ch 1, Herr dc) in the next,
herr dc in the next 8(8, 8, 8, 8) (10, 12, 14, 16) for the second sleeve,
(Herr dc, ch 1, Herr dc) in the last, do NOT join.
You will end with 54(64, 68, 76, 78) (86, 96, 104, 108) Herr dc. 17 (22, 24, 28, 29) (31, 34, 36, 38) for each the front and back and 10 (10, 10, 10, 10) (12, 14, 16, 18) for each sleeve.
Place a stitch marker to mark the first st of the round and move it up every round. You may also find it helpful to place a stitch marker in every ch space. The st after the ch-1 space can be easy to miss!
If striping the yoke change to color B for every odd round and color A for every even round. Note: if you don’t like the jog created by the color changing you can work in joined rounds.
Round 3 – Herr dc in each Herr dc, (Herr dc, ch 1, Herr dc) in each of the 4 ch-1 spaces, do not join. 62(72, 76, 84, 86) (94, 104, 108, 116)Herr dc
Repeat round 3, 8 (8, 9, 10, 11) (13, 14, 15, 16) more times for a total of 11(11, 12, 13, 14) (16, 17, 18, 19) rounds. Each repeat of round 3 will add 8 total Herr dc, 2 to each the front, back and sleeves.
You will end with 126 (136, 148, 164, 174) (198, 216, 232, 248) total herr dc.
Fasten off color B.
Split for Sleeves and Bottom
You will now split for the sleeves and the bottom.
The skipped stitches will be used for the sleeves.
Round 1 – (Herr dc in each st to the next ch-1 space, Herr dc in the ch-1 space, ch 4(5, 6, 6, 8) (8, 8, 8, 8), skip all sts to the next ch-1 space, Herr dc in the next ch-1 space) 2 times, Herr dc in each remaining Herr dc. 82(94, 104, 116, 126) (138, 148, 156, 164) total sts including chs
Round 2 – Herr dc in each st around. 82(94, 104, 116, 126) (138, 148, 156, 164)Herr dc
Repeat round 2 until you have 26 rounds (or to desired length minus 1.5”), Herr hdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next.
Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from hook and every ch, slip st in the next 2 sts of the bottom. (6 sc)
Row 2: Turn, skip the 2 slip sts, working in the BLO, sc in each sc across.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, working in the BLO, sc in each sc, slip st in the next 2 sts of the bottom.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 around the bottom, slip st the first row.
Join to any st at the arm opening
(somewhere near the underarm is best).
Tip: Leave a fairly long tail to sew up any gaps in the underarm.
Round 1 – Ch 1, Herr dc in every st around do NOT join. 32(33, 36, 38, 42) (48, 52, 56, 60)Herr dc
Add a stitch marker to mark the first st of the round
Round 2 – Herr dc in every st around do NOT join. 32(33, 36, 38, 42) (48, 52, 56, 60)Herr dc
Repeat round 2 adding decrease rounds as listed below until you have 33 rounds.
XS and S: rounds 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30
M: rounds 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 29, 31
L: rounds 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31
1X: rounds: 3, 6, 9, 12, then every even round
2X: every odd round then round 26-32
3X: every odd round then rounds 21-32
4X: every odd round then rounds 15-32
5X: every odd round then rounds 9-32
Decrease Round: Herr dc in each
st until 2 sts remain, Herr dc2tog over the last 2 sts, join to the first Herr dc.
1 st decreased
Because this st leans the decrease (Herr dc2tog) will wander to one side. It should be pretty well hidden but if it’s not to your liking you can alternate adding the decrease to the beginning of the decrease round.
You will end with 22 (23, 25, 25, 28) (30, 31, 32, 33) sts.
Herr hdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next.
Work as you did for the bottom trim but with the smaller hook
Fasten off, repeat on the other arm opening.
Block, weave in ends.